Vintage Dirt Digest #21-30
VintDirt-digest Sunday, June 1 1997 Volume 01 : Number 021
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Date: Sun, 01 Jun 1997 06:41:13 -0400
From: Harold
Subject: Re: VintDirt Another picture
I constantly find myself needing oil seals of which I know all the
dimensions (usually metric) but which my local bearing house says they
can't get.
Can anyone suggest a source for these seals, preferably a mail order
source?
TIA,
Harold McLean
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 10:40:06 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Figuring rear damper length
I initially wrote this to send to Alec Millet in Australia, who is
trying to decide what dampers to buy for his Ducati 350 road racer.
I thought that it might be of use to someone else. This is a pretty
basic treatment, and if you are running a 100 bhp bike this procedure
may require a bit of modification on the final setup.
********************************************
Before buying your rear dampers do this:
Pull off the dampers and let the tire rest inside the rear fender.
Measure the center-center distance on the damper mounts, then add 1/2"
to that for fender clearance and record this dimension. Be aware that
fender clearance can vary with chain adjuster position so to check
that out move the adjusters full forward and full aft to see if the
minimum clearance changes.
Now put the bike back on the stand (still without dampers) and let the
rear wheel droop. I don't know if you still have the passenger peg
mounts, as they are often used as an exhaust mount on the Ducati
singles, but let the wheel go down until you start to see the chain
interfering with the top of the swing arm pivot or other parts of the
bike. Measure the damper mounts again.
Now align the c/s sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle on the
same line. Measure the damper mounts again. This should be the
tightest point on the chain, and the chain will loosen as the rear
axle moves up or down. This is a good time to set your chain tension.
When you get a final setting on the damper lengths you can measure
the chain slack at full extension of the rear suspension and record
that figure for later use. This is much easier than pulling the
dampers off every time you want to adjust the chain!
You now know the potential maximum and minimum lengths of the
dampers.
Try to get a 4" travel damper, as the Ducati dampers are not heavily
leveraged on the swing arm and 4-5" of travel is pretty nice to have
on a road racer, especially on a bumpy course. I think that both my
Laverda and the Honda run close to 5" of travel in the rear
suspension. The longer travel lets you run a little more sag,
allowing the rear wheel to move down into dips in the road instead of
leaving the ground when encountering the dip. The longer travel will
also let you run a lighter spring. Sometimes the dampers come with
shorter travel done by adding spacers on the shaft, and I've
successfully cut these off of Girlings/Hagons (the Hagons are plastic)
to increase travel. Don't confuse these spacers with the rubber bump
stop. Always presume the bump stop will compress to zero when
figuring the actual shaft travel of the damper.
Consider making the travel symmetric about the "3 points in a line"
figure, as that will keep the chain tension most constant. Record the
max/min damper lengths that this gives you, and compare with the
potential max/min lengths you measured earlier.
I'd recommend biasing the length a bit towards the long side, as that
will steepen the front end a bit and give some more ground clearance.
As long as you aren't having massive chain rub on the swing arm pivot
you probably don't need to worry much about excessive anti-squat in
the rear end (besides, it doesn't seem to make a great deal of
difference in our small displacement low-powered vintage bikes).
You now have a good idea of what damper length you need for your bike,
which may well be different than the length of the OEM damper, or what
your local "never seen one of these bikes, mate" parts guy will
recommend for your bike.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:57:43 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: Re: VintDirt Oil Seals
> I constantly find myself needing oil seals of which I know all the
> dimensions (usually metric) but which my local bearing house says they
> can't get.
>
> Can anyone suggest a source for these seals, preferably a mail order
> source?
> Harold McLean
Hello Harold,
The next time you go to your bearing house ask for a copy of the
Federal Mogul "National Oil Seals Industrial Interchange" catalog (or
you might find FM on the web if you do a search). This will let you
do a cross match between different mfgrs seal numbers. Also ask for
a regular seal catalog, as then you can find the part number for
whatever dimensions you need.
Ask for copies of bearing catalogs while you are at it - NTN, Timken,
SKF, etc most anyone will do (or collect the whole set).
Once you've done that, then find yourself a different bearing house
to deal with, as your local one sounds moderately incompetent.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 17:30:31 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: Re: VintDirt Oil Seals
> > Also ask for
> > a regular seal catalog, as then you can find the part number for
> > whatever dimensions you need.
>
> As you point out, this isn't a great bearing house. If I can ask for
> the precise publication you're talking about, I can probably get it, yet
> if I ask for some generic thing, they'll gimmie the same result I get on
> the seals. for this reason, I ask you to identify the "regular seal
> catalog" as specifically as you can, so that I can get one.
>
> Frequently, this bearing house will have exactly what I need. But if I
> could approach their counter with a current seal number in hand--well
> you know the rest.
Hello Harold,
I don't have the seal catalog (what I thought was the catalog is the
interchange book) but here is the corporate web site for sealing
products:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/sealing_systems.html
There is also some pages off of the root page with drag-race info,
and various other stuff. It might be worth while to browse around
it.
I'd think that if you send them a message inquiring about all of
their catalogs you could probably get some for little or no money.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #21
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VintDirt-digest Sunday, June 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 022
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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 22:18:13 -0400
From: Harold
Subject: VintDirt Bike Lights
I need some help with identifying a headlight, and ask you listers for
information regarding a source.
The headlight I need was installed on a Hercules GS-250 bike, which was
made in West Germany. However the headlight appears to be ITALIAN. The
headlight has a seperate bulb (ie, not sealed beam) It has a seperate
unit which mounts into the rim with small spring wires, then the bulb
fits in taht fixture.
Here are all the identifying marks on the light: these letters appear
printed on the light itself, which as I say is not a sealed beam, but
which does receive the bulb assembly: "Milano CEV Italy" with the 'CEV'
encircled with an elipse. then it says IGM 0121 PMx. It also says
P_amp 0071, where the '_' is a character I can't make out. It is very
close to four and one half inches in diameter.
Headlight Rim: Says "TIPO CEV 105" with the 'CEV' again encircled.
The lense of the headlight unit has "IGM 0121 PMx" cast right into it.
The silver reflector on the inside of the light unit is deteriorated, as
is the headlight rim. As I say, the whole deal is about 4 1/2 inches in
diameter.
I need both the light fixture and the rim. I have the bulb mount and
associated material. Any help in ID'ing and finding a souce for this
item would be much appricated. Incidentally, these lights don't put out
much light. I think they were fitted to the Hercules to satisfy
lighting requirements for competiton in ISDT and US enduros.
I wouldn't be surprised to find some Ducati's using this fixture, so if
anyone can refer me to their list, I'd appricate it as well.
Sorry for the length of my message.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 12:19:30 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Another picture
This time it's an article from 1963 on Joe Bolger's 50cc Yamaguchi
scrambler.
In the dirt bike section on the web site's graphics page.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #22
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VintDirt-digest Monday, June 9 1997 Volume 01 : Number 023
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Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 19:33:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dan Hankerson
Subject: Re: VintDirt-digest V1 #20
At 08:58 PM 5/31/97 -0700, you wrote:
>
>VintDirt-digest Saturday, May 31 1997 Volume 01 : Number 020
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 19:26:25 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Dan Hankerson
>Subject: VintDirt cheney frame
>
>
>Hello Dan,
>
>Jerry Cheney? The only Cheney I know of that did frames was/is Eric
>Cheney in England. Then again, it seems like I've seen reference to
>Cheney flat track frames, and it has always puzzled me, since I
>doubted that Eric Cheney had the dirt-track experience to build
>something appropriate to dirt-track (by experience I refer to what DT
>needed for geometry, weight distribution, etc, not experience in
>building frames of which he no doubt has a surplus).
>
>If there is another Cheney making frames in the States I'd be
>interested in hearing some details.
>
>Cheers,
>Michael
>Michael Moore
>Euro Spares, SF CA
>Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
>Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for
constructors"
>http://www.eurospares.com
>AFM/AHRMA #364
>
Sorry Michael, I've been gone a week. Jerry made alot of flat track frames
in the 70s. Saw a few in Minnesota when I raced then. I had to have one so I
went to Iowa (which I here he got back into making them again) with the can-am
motor in 1974 and brought it back. Nice handling frame, looks alot like the
champion flat track frame. He's well known in the Sturgis racing crowd.
The goodyear tires are just to wide for the crowns. Any other tires out there?
Thanks
dan ps To cheap to buy new crowns.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 18:32:37 -0700
From: rcording@qntm.com (Rick Cording)
Subject: VintDirt Koni Rebuild
I have an old pair of Konis that I'm debating on trying to rebuild.
Any advise on literature / rebuild kits (& tools?) or should I just
forget it and spend the $300 clams on Works shocks? Given that my
bike will primarily run in AHRMA heats it probably won't over tax an
old shock will it?
rick
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #23
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VintDirt-digest Monday, June 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 024
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Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 17:08:02 +1200
From: David Gibb
Subject: Re: VintDirt Koni Rebuild
At 06:32 pm 09-06-97 -0700, you wrote:
> I have an old pair of Konis that I'm debating on trying to rebuild.
> Any advise on literature / rebuild kits (& tools?) or should I just
forget it and spend the $300 clams on Works shocks? Given that my
>bike will primarily run in AHRMA heats it probably won't over tax an
>ld shock will it?
>
> rick
>
Hi Rick.
Check out the KOni dealer/agent/whatever. Konis came with a lifetime
guarantee (at least in New Zealand and I am pretty sure the rest of the
world) so if it has failed you should be able to get it rebuilt for nix. It
is not really worth trying to do yourself unless you can get access to the
prooper tools.
Cheers
Dave.
David Gibb
MGNOC #12374
daveg@chch.planet.org.nz
Christchurch, New Zealand.
Indecision is the key to flexibility.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 09:19:43 -0700
From: rcording@qntm.com (Rick Cording)
Subject: VintDirt CCM
Have found a '75 CCM 600cc dirt bike that the owner is willing to part
with, if the price is right. What is the right price? I know these
bikes were a "custom" works type modeled off the BSA B50 with plenty
of period go-fast stuff. The bike ran one full summer ('76) and was
then retired to the corner of the garage. Reported to be in excellent
mechanics (outside of sitting for 20 yrs !) but slight aged cosmetics.
I don't believe this is AHRMA legal and would probably not be
competitive in the Evolution series. Sure sounds like it would be fun
to fun to ride though...
rick
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #24
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VintDirt-digest Friday, June 20 1997 Volume 01 : Number 025
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Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 10:11:44 PDT
From: "Wesley Katz"
Subject: VintDirt Need Parts Help
Hi, I'm new to the list (been reading for awahile, but first post) and
could use some help finding some parts. I have a 1974 CR125 Elsinore,
very tricked out. It has the 36mm Mikuni carb mod that was very popular
back then. I am trying to find both the intake manifold and the
carb-to-airbox boot (which has a DG stamp in it). The stock parts won't
fit the larger carb horns. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Wes
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 10:23:17 PDT
From: "Wesley Katz"
Subject: VintDirt Need Parts Help
Hi, I'm new to the list (been reading for awahile, but first post) and
could use some help finding some parts. I have a 1974 CR125 Elsinore,
very tricked out. It has the 36mm Mikuni carb mod that was very popular
back then. I am trying to find both the intake manifold and the
carb-to-airbox boot (which has a DG stamp in it). The stock parts won't
fit the larger carb horns. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Wes
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 15:21:14 GMT+6
From: "Jeffrey W. Spencer"
Subject: VintDirt greetings
Hi,
I'm new to the list and I've not seen any traffic, so I thought I'd
make some introductions. My name is Jeffrey Spencer, I'm 27 years
old and I'm addicted to old bikes :-) I've got a beautifully
restored Hodaka Road Toad that I ride in AHRMA (and some fun) trials.
I'm in the process of restoring some pre-1970 Honda trail 90's (2-
CT200's, 1-CT90) with my father-in-law, Don Brookshire, as well as a
Bultaco M188 Alpina for trail riding. (I need parts for all, so email
me if you've got some or know someone who does). I run a web page
dedicated to vintage/classic bikes. It's at:
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/cycle.html
and the primary emphasis is Hodakas and Bultacos. Anyway, I just
wanted to say hi and that I hope to see some traffic here. Oh, and
hi Michael, long time no chat. Thanks for hosting this!
cheerz,
Jeffrey W. Spencer
AHRMA# 1735
AMA# 521454
*******************************************************
Jeffrey W. Spencer Email: jws@ee.umr.edu
Electrical Engineering Phone: 573-341-4919
University of Missouri-Rolla Fax: 573-341-4532
Alternate Personal Email at: spencer@rollanet.org
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/jeff.html
*******************************************************
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #25
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VintDirt-digest Saturday, June 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 026
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Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 16:23:18 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
> wanted to say hi and that I hope to see some traffic here. Oh, and
> hi Michael, long time no chat. Thanks for hosting this!
> Jeffrey W. Spencer
Hello Jeffrey,
For some reason I had thought you'd subscribed some time ago - sorry
I didn't send you a direct notice of the list being up.
As with most lists, esp. those with a smaller subscriber base (I
think we're in the 50-75 range right now) there are periods of
greater and lesser traffic. I can't fill all five lists by myself
(though some people probably think I do) so we've got to depend on
people posting something now and then to get a thread started.
If a small buying trip goes well tomorrow I'll be able to write a bit
about the latest silly project I'm thinking about doing - this time a
vintage Italian dirt bike (no, neither a Ducati or one of the spare
MotoBi motors, though the latter has crossed my mind).
Details to appear soon.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 21:00:07 -0700
From: hcp17@ix.netcom.com
Subject: VintDirt (no subject)
Thought I might follow Jeffery Spencers lead a get off my tail and
introduce myself as well.
My name is Bob Lovell. I'm from Kansas City. My primary interest is with
Maico motorcycles. What got me started on them is a 77 Maico 125 that I
bought about 8 months ago. It runs and is great shape. I'm still
looking for the right 250 (73-74) to show up but havent found it yet.
Not long after getting the 125 a buddy of mine got me into AHRMA. But
the Maico was to new to race. So while in Casey Ill. for the nationals
I picked up a 73 Combat Wombat for my son. We put a new piston & rings
in it, painted it and got it running like a top. Its a great bike, I
really enjoy it. He's not yet 16 (to young for ARHMA racing) so he's
letting me race it in Peoria Ill on the 28th. Then a few weeks ago I
picked up 2 73 125 Huskys. One is in super shape & the other is mostly
for parts. I haven't had any time to work on them yet. Then my youngest
kids ride a 73 Indian 70cc mini thats been in the family since it was
new.
Thanks for putting the list out.
Any one who would like another web site to visit. Check out mine.
Maico Madness http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6404/index.html
Take care,
Bob Lovell
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 04:16:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: APGUSER@aol.com
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
Guess I should jump in here as Jeff has. My name is Doug Klassen and I live
in Tempe, AZ. Used to race 100-125 Bultacos and assorted other bikes in the
early '70s. Got tired of getting hurt racing so I discovered a new hobby in
1972. It was called "hang gliding." Hindsight reveals that I should have
stuck with racing.
Anyway, after being mostly a street rider after giving up racing I wandered
out to a vintage mx race here in the Phoenix area and was really jazzed to
see all the old bikes racing again. After visiting another race or two I
began looking for a used Bultaco, preferably a 250 Pursang M68 "boxtail". It
was what I wanted in 1970-71 but couldn't afford. By chance while looking
for an XR80 back in March for my 10 year old son I ran into a fellow here in
Phoenix who owns a number of Buls in various conditions. He had a Pursang
exactly like I was looking for (but fairly thrashed and not running) that he
let me have for $200. All the big pieces were there so I plunked down my $$
and jumped in.
The bike is in pieces now but the project is pretty well under way. The
engine was sent off to Speed and Sport in California for a rebuild while I
strip the frame and clean things up. Some idiot had painted most of the bike
black with a spray can so getting all the paint off has been fun.
I've got a bit of welding to do on the frame to touch up some small bracket
cracks and then it will be ready for paint. The glass work is still to be
cleaned and sanded and there's a bit of repair needed on the rear fender.
Wheels are yet to be broken down but I'll have those apart soon and have
them restrung with s/steel spokes after I polish the hubs and rims. Forks
have gotten new seals and springs and the shocks, some old Works Performance
units are out being rebuilt.
Hope to have the bike bike together for the next racing season (winter in
this part of the country). For you Bultaco fans I can heartly recommend
Mobley's Bultaco and Bud's Bultaco for parts. Hugh's Bultaco has lots of
stuff and is helpful but is a bit pricey when compared to the other two. All
three places can be found on the WWW.
Doug
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 05:01:23 -0400
From: Harold
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
Good luck with your Bul, but fer peeeeeetssss seeeeeaaaaaak, consider
getting the frame powdercoated, as opposed to painted. I have five
bultaco's which I have restored, and have powdercoated each of them. My
local powder coater, and I would think all the rest, have a shade of
powder which is indistinguisable from the original color.
Hey, wait 'till you hear and feel that Bultaco grunt coming out of a
corner!!!
I didn't have good luck with Mobley's--they sent me a rim which was
worse than the one I was replacing. I like Hughs, but haven't heard of
Buds. will give them a try. the only thing more better than one Bul
is more of 'em.
I'm looking for a Rickman-Bultaco, should you ever encounter one, lemmie
know.
Good luck and thumbs up!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 08:30:03 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
> Good luck with your Bul, but fer peeeeeetssss seeeeeaaaaaak, consider
> getting the frame powdercoated, as opposed to painted. I have five
> bultaco's which I have restored, and have powdercoated each of them. My
> local powder coater, and I would think all the rest, have a shade of
> powder which is indistinguisable from the original color.
I like painted frames just because if you have to weld on them you
can touch them up again. With the powder coating (which is very
durable and would be the choice if you were SURE you'd never need to
weld on the part) you'll have to use paint to touch up where you
welded and scraped/burned the powder off.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 17:22:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: APGUSER@aol.com
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
In a message dated 97-06-21 14:51:38 EDT, you write:
<< Good luck with your Bul, but fer peeeeeetssss seeeeeaaaaaak, consider
getting the frame powdercoated, as opposed to painted. I have five
bultaco's which I have restored, and have powdercoated each of them. My
local powder coater, and I would think all the rest, have a shade of
powder which is indistinguisable from the original color.
>>
Thanks for the encouragement. I used to have a dirt track car with a
powdercoated frame and it was great from a durability standpoint but as
someone else pointed out when you have to weld on it it's a mess. Right now
I'm sort of inclined to use a good epoxy paint on it; kind of a compromise
between powdercoat and enamel or lacquer.
>>I didn't have good luck with Mobley's--they sent me a rim which was
worse than the one I was replacing. I like Hughs, but haven't heard of
Buds. will give them a try. the only thing more better than one Bul
is more of 'em.<<
Bud's can be reached via their ad at www.flattrack.com. "Bud's" is really
Bud Hotchkiss, a retired aerospace worker with something like 160 Buls in his
back yard in Yuma, AZ. Bud seems to be a prince of a guy, very friendly and
a true Bultaco fanatic. When I got my bike I bought a parts manual from
Mobley and went through it making a complete list of everything I needed or
wanted to get the bike together. I faxed or e-mail the list to Bud's, Hugh's
and Mobley's to see who had what and at what price (I do purchasing for a big
corp. so it's in my nature to shop...). As I expected none of the guys had
everything on the list and the price for a some items varied widely but
everyone I talked to was helpful. I wound up ordering the first batch of
stuff from Bud and Mobley with the next batch to come from Hugh's. I figure
it's best to establish a relationship with all three guys since they are the
principal suppliers of Bultaco parts in the US. Old saying: "Money is like
manure; it will do you the most good if you spread it around."
By the way, on the Rickman Bultaco: check with Dave Boydston at Arizona
Motorcycle Sales and Salvage in Tempe, AZ. I believe Dave has one though I
don't know if he's inclined to sell. Dave has maybe a 150 - 200 vintage dirt
bikes in addition to his salvage business and as they say "everything is for
sale if the price is right."
Interesting thing about vintage dirt bikes in the Phoenix area. Several
years back Dave Boydston, Glenn McMinn, Bud Hotchkiss and one or two others
began accumulating old dirt bikes from garage sales, swap meets, etc.
There's scarcely an old dirt bike to be found anymore that these guys
haven't grabbed up. Between four guys that I know here in centeral AZ they
own perhaps 500 vintage dirt bikes of all types. Fortunately they were
motivated as much by the love of the bikes and a desire to rescue them as
anything else and are willing to sell stuff off at fairly reasonable prices.
The bad part is that us local guys are unlikely to run across that "special"
dirt bike for $50 at a garage sale. I was talking to Boydston awhile back
(be warned: Dave's a real Type A personality) and he said that he and McMinn
made a consious decision to sell of bikes in order to promote vintage racing.
As Dave told me "Nobody can race vintage and the sport can't grow in this
area if McMinn and I hold on to all the bikes."
Doug
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #26
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VintDirt-digest Saturday, June 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 027
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Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 18:04:35 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt No One Stopped Me . . .
So I went out today and added some more small Italian engines to the
ever expanding Michael's Orphanage for Wayward Thumpettes.
Today's find was a pair of 150cc Laverda nearly-horizontal pushrod
thumpettes. Engines only, but they do have both kick and shift levers
(no carbs) and seem complete other than that (one is missing the
points cover). At $120 the pair I was unable to control my
acquisitive urges.
I think that these engines (with 4 speed transmissions) would be fun
to make in to an AHRMA Classic 125 MX bike, esp since 4 stroke singles
are allowed to run to 150cc. I was going to build a Honda thumpette
for this class, but the Laverda should be even more fun, especially as
it is likely to be the only one on the track.
I've got pictures of the 125/150 Trail (also sold in the US as the
Garelli Gladiator, and later as an American Eagle), but Ainscoe/Parker
Laverda book mentions that at the 1967 Milan Show a more sophisticated
competition model, the "Regolarita Corsa", was shown. I don't have a
picture of this (that I know of, but I'll have to cruise through my
magazines soon) but the text makes it sound like the RC had a somewhat
Honda SL90/Indian 100/Rickman Aermacchi style frame, with the lower
frame downtubes running above the engine instead of below. The book
says that a Motociclismo test heaped praise upon the clutch, lively
acceleration and excellent roadholding from the Ceriani suspension.
The faulted the bike for a lack of a 5th gear and an overly vulnerable
shift lever.
There is a photo of a Garelli ad showing the famous Garelli Girl and a
KL150, which looks to be a Trail with a low front fender on my website
at:
http://www.eurospares.com/ggirl.jpg
If anyone has a picture of a Regolarita Corsa I'd be very interested
in obtaining a copy, and that holds true for a shop/parts manual for
either the 125 or 150. Knowledge of anyone with some OEM engine parts
or additional engines for "just in case" would be nice too.
I'll build some sort of space frame for the bike, though how closely
it will follow the stock frames will depend on what an inspection of
pictures of them turns up that I don't like. At least Laverda had a
much better clue on thumper engine mounts than did MotoBi, as the
Laverda's 3 mounts are all usefully wide. The chain line looks a bit
narrow, so they engine may have to be spaced over a bit to clear a
4.00" rear knobby tire (presuming I can get it to put out enough power
to run that instead of a 3.50" rear tire, speaking of which does
anyone know of a good source of race quality 3.50x18 rear knobbies? I
haven't seen anything really nice since the 3.5" or 3.75" Metzler that
came stock on my 125 Maico).
I guess it is time to start another project page on the web site.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:10:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: RonHammer5@aol.com
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
In a message dated 97-06-21 14:51:38 EDT, you write:
<< I have five bultaco's which I have restored >>
Any advise on how to "clean up" the threads on the exhast port of a MATADOR
MK3 250?
Ron
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 20:43:21 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Another photo
I've just uploaded a picture of some modern girder forks that Tony
Foale made for a customer. Tony was surprised at how well they
worked, and thought they had some advantages over telescopics.
It's at the top of the "Tony Foale" section on the graphics page of my
web site.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:53:10 -0400
From: Harold
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
No, sorry. I sure dont have a tap that large. You might be able to get
a good machine shop to do it, but I should imagine their fee would rival
the worth of the jug. As you proably know, Bul quit threading those
things and put studs on 'em on the later ones. I suppose the prior
owner cross threaded the retainer nut.
Sorry for the lack of ideas. You might contact Hughs for an
idea--there's an outside chance he has a tap that size.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:56:13 -0400
From: Harold
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
Thanks for the info re the Tempe Arizona, a town I know only from
RAISING ARIZONA. There is another bultaco supplier, in fact, I let them
do all my machine work: Hogan's cycle in Agawam MA.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 21:40:42 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Laverda 150 update
I found an article on the "Garelli" KL-150 Gladiator in the March
1969 issue of "Cycle" magazine. It mentioned that at the 1968 ISDT
Laverda powered bikes took one gold and two silver medals as part of
the Italian Silver Vase trophy team.
Some specs of the bike:
Wheelbase: 47.85"
Ground clearance: 9.5"
Curb weight: 218 pounds
Top speed: 75 mph
Carb: 20mm Dell' Orto
Compression ratio: 9:1
Claimed bhp: 18.6@7800 (not bloody likely!!!(their words))
Gear ratios (overall)
(1) 21.4, (2) 11.3, (3) 7.77, (4) 6.25
Suggested retail $500
It sounds to me that a competition trim dirt bike could be close to
200 pounds ready to go. Since race cams may be somewhat thin upon
the ground, I'd guess that a realistic rear wheel bhp will be in the
12 bhp range. This sounds low, but I know of some 14.5 rear wheel
bhp roadracers (with good aerodynamics) that went around 100 mph.
Don't forget to check your garages for unwanted Laverda 125/150
parts.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:39:02 -0700
From: Jared Bates
Subject: VintDirt threads
Concerning the messed up exhaust threads, the only real fix, (same thing
with Montesa's) is to have a threaded insert heliarced in place. This was
a common problem with the Montesa's in the 70's. Guy's would not wire the
nut down, it would get loose, and wreck the threads. Safety wiring the nut
and using antiseize compound did the trick. Today, the cost of this
operation is around $80.
Now, as for Dave Boydstun, he is a "type A" person for sure! he is totally
dedicated to the vintage movement. He knows his stuff about all aspects of
the vintage scene, know's what the stuffs worth, and is fair in his
pricing. He is about to move into the Vintage arena in a big way, by
offering "one stop shopping" for all your vintage needs. You will want to
check out his website in the next two weeks.
I know he has one Rickman Bul complete, and one other one almost done, I do
not know if they are for sale.
JB
Southwest Montesa
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #27
*****************************
VintDirt-digest Monday, June 23 1997 Volume 01 : Number 028
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 15:09:27 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Laverda 150 Page
I've just posted a page to my web site for the Laverda 150 thumpette
MXer project.
Along with specifications gleaned from a couple of articles, I've also
listed the cam timing/lifts that I measured a few minutes ago.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 21:01:39 -0700
From: Jerry Erickson
Subject: VintDirt Coil tester
I am in need of some technical advice. I want to make a simple coil
tester. I have about 12 different bikes with MotoPlat systems and
another 5 or so with point systems. Also a bunch of old coils. I would
like to be able to test a coil and if it is no good, throw it out.
Currently the only way I can test a coil is to put it on a running bike
and try it out. Too much work.
If I set up a board with a battery and some pigtails and a good spark
plug, it would be much eaiser and I may learn something in the process.
If I put power to the big lead on the coil, ground the coil to the
battery, mount the spark plug in the plug wire, ground the spark plug to
the battery, and give the small lead on the coil a quick jolt, seems
like I should get a spark. Obviously I have to know if it is a 6 volt
or 12 volt, positive or negative.
Any suggestions?
Also, I think there is a way of testing a coil by testing the resistance
accross the leads?? Dose this really tell anything? How do you know
what the specs should be?
Any MotoPlat experts out there?
The most problems I have are no spark, hard starting, fouled plugs.
Twenty five years ago when I was ridding these bikes, I don't remember
having any of these problems. I like to blame it on the junk gas we get
here in calif now, but maybe it just old weak coils, or maybe old
carbs that don't function right anymore. About half my old bikes have
Amals which are well worn, most the others have Bings which I think have
stood the test of time and neglect better.
Also, I have heard of a MotoPlate replacement called "PVL" which is
supposed to put out much hotter sparks. Sounds great but expensive.
Any one tried one of these?
Thanks, Vintage Jerry
6 Pentons, 4 Cotas, 3 Huskys, 3 Scramblers, 1 Victor
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 07:36:27 GMT+6
From: "Jeffrey W. Spencer"
Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
I keep lists of both Hodaka and Bultaco suppliers at my site at:
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/cycle.html
Check these out sometime and if you run across some I don't have,
email me and I'll add them to the lists. I want to start a pre-1970
Honda supplier list too, so those are always welcomed too.
cheerz,
Jeff
> Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:56:13 -0400
> From: Harold
> To: vintage-dirt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: VintDirt greetings
> Reply-to: vintage-dirt@list.sirius.com
> Thanks for the info re the Tempe Arizona, a town I know only from
> RAISING ARIZONA. There is another bultaco supplier, in fact, I let them
> do all my machine work: Hogan's cycle in Agawam MA.
>
*******************************************************
Jeffrey W. Spencer Email: jws@ee.umr.edu
Electrical Engineering Phone: 573-341-4919
University of Missouri-Rolla Fax: 573-341-4532
Alternate Personal Email at: spencer@rollanet.org
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/jeff.html
*******************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 07:44:00 GMT+6
From: "Jeffrey W. Spencer"
Subject: Re: VintDirt (no subject)
Looks like I'll be seeing you in Peoria that weekend Bob. My father-
in-law, Don Brookshire, and I will be there for the trial the 29th
and to watch the MX on the 28th. Anyone else going to be there?
cheerz,
Jeff
> From: hcp17@ix.netcom.com
> Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 21:00:07 -0700
> To: vintage-dirt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: VintDirt (no subject)
> Reply-to: vintage-dirt@list.sirius.com
> Thought I might follow Jeffery Spencers lead a get off my tail and
> introduce myself as well.
>
> My name is Bob Lovell. I'm from Kansas City. My primary interest is with
> Maico motorcycles. What got me started on them is a 77 Maico 125 that I
> bought about 8 months ago. It runs and is great shape. I'm still
> looking for the right 250 (73-74) to show up but havent found it yet.
> Not long after getting the 125 a buddy of mine got me into AHRMA. But
> the Maico was to new to race. So while in Casey Ill. for the nationals
> I picked up a 73 Combat Wombat for my son. We put a new piston & rings
> in it, painted it and got it running like a top. Its a great bike, I
> really enjoy it. He's not yet 16 (to young for ARHMA racing) so he's
> letting me race it in Peoria Ill on the 28th. Then a few weeks ago I
> picked up 2 73 125 Huskys. One is in super shape & the other is mostly
> for parts. I haven't had any time to work on them yet. Then my youngest
> kids ride a 73 Indian 70cc mini thats been in the family since it was
> new.
>
> Thanks for putting the list out.
>
> Any one who would like another web site to visit. Check out mine.
> Maico Madness http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6404/index.html
>
>
> Take care,
> Bob Lovell
>
*******************************************************
Jeffrey W. Spencer Email: jws@ee.umr.edu
Electrical Engineering Phone: 573-341-4919
University of Missouri-Rolla Fax: 573-341-4532
Alternate Personal Email at: spencer@rollanet.org
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/jeff.html
*******************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:43:51 -0700
From: rcording@qntm.com (Rick Cording)
Subject: VintDirt CZ Rebuild
Encouraged by the recent 'traffic'. We may just get a list going yet!
Thought I'd share my excitment in seeing my '73 CZ 400 go back
together...polished up my fork legs and clamps and reinstalled the
rebuilt forks into the freshly powdercoated frame. Then with a few
choice words, installed the infamous CZ swingarm w/ fresh bushings and
o-rings. Now I need to get some fresh rubber on my newly spoked and
painted wheels (any recommendations?) and then I'll have a roller.
Insert the rebuilt motor, install the recovered seat, pop on the new
aluminum tank and ta da...one gorgeous motorcycle in hands of one
dangerous novice (it's been 24 years since I last was bombing around
the southern Ca. desert on a AJS Stormer).
Some thoughts on my rebuild:
- Dirt bikes are NOT cheaper to restore. Fewer parts maybe, but the
ones that are still there are usually beat to h*ll
- Dirt bikes are MUCH cheaper to find used than that a beat to sh*t
Triumph that some guys buddy says he ought to be able to get $1000
for, but it's missing just about everything. Both my CZ's came for
under $200 from the local papers (oh yeah, you need at least 2 bikes
usually to restore 1; murphy's law of bike restoration)
- Unlike vintage street bikes, there are no warehouses filled with
the parts you need. In fact there are very few (any?) professional
dealers. The unobtainium part you need for that dirt bike will more
than likely come from the crazed enthusiast, who if he likes you might
give you the part for free, if he doesn't...well ask your wife to talk
to him. Two good sources of finding used bits is: Old Bike Journal
and AHRMA's newsletters Vintage Views Parts Mart (also on the web!)
- CZ parts: Bertus is the source (818-330-2326) significantly
cheaper than anyone else and he's been doing it since the 60's
- If your rebuilding CZ wheels you might try Mike Szura
(510-785-0690) he's very reasonable (rebuilt 4 wheels: paint,
stainless spokes, and labor for $100@) and a AHRMA CZ rider.
- If you'd like to find an alloy tank, try having Jeff Mullins
(408-749-9856) make you one. His are kinda works looking (meaning the
welds are a little 'thick') but they're light, gorgeous, and
reasonably priced.
That's it for now. Hopefully see you at the races in a couple of
months,
rick
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #28
*****************************
VintDirt-digest Wednesday, June 25 1997 Volume 01 : Number 029
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 10:57:14 GMT+6
From: "Jeffrey W. Spencer"
Subject: Re: VintDirt CZ Rebuild
> Some thoughts on my rebuild:
>
> - Dirt bikes are NOT cheaper to restore. Fewer parts maybe, but the
> ones that are still there are usually beat to h*ll
I don't know about that one. It all probably depends on the bike and
the part availability. My first bike is a '75 Hodaka Road Toad that
my father-in-law, Don, and I built from pretty much the ground up. I
believe he bought the think trashed out at a motorcycle salvage yard
for $30-$40. I had a new rod and piston put in, repainted, new IRC
trials tires, new tank, a lot of new rubber, handlebars, brakes,
bearings, new sprockets (custom for trials), chain, baffle, and paint
job (I'm sure I'm missing stuff). After all is said and done, I've
probably got $600 in the bike. Now, go find even a decent used newer
bike for that. Of course it varies from bike to bike on how much
parts cost too. Parts for the trail 90's I'm doing are fairly cheap
compared to the Hodaka. Bultaco parts are a little more expensive
than the Hodaka though. Besides, when all is said and done, I've got
a beautiful bike. I couldn't say that with a straight face if I
bought a new one. *lol* This is an expensive habit though. I've got
3 bikes I'm trying to work on at once along with what Don is working
on, and no money to get anything done :-)
cheerz,
Jeff
*******************************************************
Jeffrey W. Spencer Email: jws@ee.umr.edu
Electrical Engineering Phone: 573-341-4919
University of Missouri-Rolla Fax: 573-341-4532
Alternate Personal Email at: spencer@rollanet.org
http://www.rollanet.org/~spencer/jeff/jeff.html
*******************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 16:23:16 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: Re: VintDirt CZ Rebuild
> Encouraged by the recent 'traffic'. We may just get a list going yet!
Hello Rick,
Everyone needs to remember that if someone doesn't post something now
and again, there won't be any traffic. Even the lurkers undoubtedly
have something to contribute - if nothing else I'm sure that a number
of you never posted an introductory message. It doesn't need to be
much - even if you don't want to say anything about yourself, I've
yet to meet a motorcyclist who didn't want to talk a bit about their
bike(s)!
> - If your rebuilding CZ wheels you might try Mike Szura
> (510-785-0690) he's very reasonable (rebuilt 4 wheels: paint,
> stainless spokes, and labor for $100@) and a AHRMA CZ rider.
Was this $100 per wheel, including painting, spokes and
truing/assembly on each wheel? That is a reasonable amount. If it
was $100 for FOUR wheels, there will soon be a line forming around
the block at Mike's house.
> - If you'd like to find an alloy tank, try having Jeff Mullins
> (408-749-9856) make you one. His are kinda works looking (meaning the
> welds are a little 'thick') but they're light, gorgeous, and
> reasonably priced.
Do you have a picture of one of his tanks? If it looks nice (and
maybe if you can get a couple of photos of a tank being built) I'll
put them on the web site, as I'm always interested in fabrication
stuff.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 18:43:24 -0500
From: Fred Hunter
Subject: Re: VintDirt (no subject)
Bob:
Saw your post on the VJMC maillist. Then went to your web page...nice!
The picture of your litttle Maico is neat. And I particularly enjoyed
the links at the end.
Reason I'm writing is that I'm in KCMo also, and am a
"retread"--somebody who used to race, and would love to lose 20 lbs. and
try it again. I raced 14 years worth of enduro's mostly, in the Texas
circuit and later the Rocky Mountain circuit (Colorado).
And I used to be a Honda Rep.
Since you're local, I'd sort of like to hop on one of the street bikes
and come over and see some of your old dirt machines. If you're
interested, let me know. Or if you're interested in going for spin on
street bikes, give me a holler.
Best Regards,
Fred Hunter
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 21:17:32 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Husky/cati thumper
I've had a couple people inquire about more information on my friend
Larry Orlick's attempt to make his Ducati 450 more of a modern dirt
bike, and when Larry called tonight to fill me in on his 2 weeks at
the Isle of Man and another 2 weeks in Ireland I remembered to ask for
some more details.
The 450 motor is (I believe) a wide case 450. The Husky chassis was
from a 1984 twin-shock 125 (he was told that all the Huskys pretty
much shared a common chassis then).
As Larry told me, the problems seemed to boil down to not picking a
chassis that fit the Ducati motor better. The exhaust pipe wanted to
exit through a frame tube, and the carburettor was going to need a
very bent intake manifold to clear the frame. He didn't want to make
a manifold like that, as the 450 isn't over abundantly supplied with
power to begin with, and there wasn't any sense to restricting it even
more.
He says he still has the bike roughly mocked up, and I'm going to try
and drop by his house next Saturday with my camera and have him drag
the thing out so I can take a couple of photos. Perhaps I'll be able
to offer some constructive suggestions that stop short of building a
completely new frame (perhaps not too).
I'll keep everyone posted on what I find out.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 21:31:32 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt More Italo-thumpette stuff
I've added to the Laverda 150 page an article about the 125
Regolarita Corsa ISDT bike, as well as pictures of both the 125 Trail
and the 125 RC (these photos are also accessable from the dirt bike
section of the graphics page).
In addition, I added a picture to the graphics page of the Gilera
125/175 Regolarita Competizione ISDT bikes - another neat little dirt
racer.
More to follow as I discover it!
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
End of VintDirt-digest V1 #29
*****************************
VintDirt-digest Saturday, June 28 1997 Volume 01 : Number 030
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 18:40:02 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Laverda 150 Regolarita Corsa Gran Sport Prototipo
I've added a bit of an analysis of the stock Laverda single frames to
my Laverda 150 page, along with a description of what I think I want
to do in building a frame for my motors. I've included a photo of the
Laverda 150 Regolarita Corsa modified via Photopaint to show the
general tubing runs.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 10:17:40 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Lots more photos
I've just added a number of photos to my web site's graphics page.
Included are shots of one of Tony Foale's racing sidecars, details of
the Q2 rear axle setup, and shots of a FF bike to which Tony assisted
the owner in fitting one of his QL front ends.
There are some new photos of Ollie McKagen's alternative front end
dirt bikes, and one of his projects with a space frame and
old-fashioned telescopic fork.
I've also (over the last few days) added pictures of various small
Italian ISDT bikes, a page for my Laverda 150 vintage MX project, and
some other stuff that escapes me at the moment.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 16:32:12 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Sears Point this Sunday
I'll be running a 250 Ducati at the AFM race this Sunday (if nothing
prevents it getting from Nevada to the Bay Area today) so anyone so
inclined please stop by and say hello. The bike will either have my
race number 364 on its fairing, or the owner's number if I run out of
time (but there shouldn't be too many full fairing equipped Ducati
singles there to sort through).
I'll also have some copies of John Bradley's book with me if you want
to take a first-hand look at it.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 17:46:05 -0800
From: "Michael Moore"
Subject: VintDirt Some list stats and administrative hectoring
I thought I'd update everyone on the different lists' standing after
nearly 3 months of existance.
The current subscribers/list are:
97 Motorcycle Chassis Design
74 Vintage Roadrace
51 Vintage Dirt
32 Lightweight Roadrace
29 Suzuki GS Twins
This was prompted by several messages I've gotten over the last few
days wondering about the lack of traffic on some of the lists.
Well, we can't ALL be lurkers and expect to have anything to read on
the lists. The chassis list seems to chug along pretty steadily, but
some of the smaller lists have gone for 5 or 6 days recently without a
post. I try to post something if I notice a lack of traffic, but I
don't always have a ready list-related topic (nor do I always notice
the dearth of posts). Besides, even I'm not going to believe you ALL
signed on to the lists just to read my posts (certainly no more than
60% will fall into this category).
I started these lists because 1) I'm interested in the topics and
wasn't seeing enough related posts on the 11 other lists that I'm on,
and 2) I thought there would be enough other people also interested in
these topics for me to justify $25/month to pay for the lists (yes, I
do have this streak of altruism that I've so far been unable to
eradicate).
As long as the lists generate enough traffic to keep me interested
I've got no problem with hosting the lists - after all it doesn't take
much for me to justify $5/month for a list since that's a pretty cheap
price for a month's entertainment.
The lists aren't taking much time to administer since I stopped
authorizing all sub/unsub actions, though I notice that every now and
again majordomo will pick somebody's sub/unsub to forward to me for
approval.
So write something now and then - even the small lists have enough
people for a post/day from a different person. I think it is safe to
presume that everyone knows how to type?!
I know I'm not the only one with a number of oddball projects, and I
wouldn't even mind hearing about some normal projects, if that isn't
an oxymoron.
The vintage lists have got about 60-70 years of history to draw on
(some of the roadrace stuff is also applicable to the lightweight-RR
list, so that list has got about 80-90 years to draw on), the chassis
design list doesn't seem to have any problems, and the GS list at
least has the benefit of current motorcycles, some of which should be
in near daily use. There are probably enough $200 GS-400s out there
that everyone on the other lists could go out and buy one in order to
justify joining the GS list and post to it.
PICTURES!!?? Would pictures of your list related bikes spark some
conversation? If I have to I'll set up a section for each list on the
web site to post list members bikes if you think that would start some
conversations going:
"Hey Vern, did you know that you've got an incorrect 25/59ths left
handed prawn nut on your bike? That was only offered on the Emile
Zola replica motoball bike produced in '06, and yours is the '07 Phil
Irving Repco special".
C'mon, c'mon, c'mon. You must have had some reason for joining the
lists - tell us about it.
Thanks to those who have been contributing on a steady basis - I'm
sure they'll be glad to carry the main load if the rest of you will
chime in now and again.
DIGESTS: Does anyone have a suggestion for an easy way that I can
make the old digests available, or is there any interest in this? I
suppose I could just save them with an .htm extension and use a set of
tags at top and bottom so they could be read off the web
site.
OK, the soapbox is now available for someone else - don't be shy.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael Moore
Euro Spares, SF CA
Distributor of Lucas RITA and Powerbase products
Sole North American source of "The Racing Motorcycle: a technical guide for constructors"
http://www.eurospares.com
AFM/AHRMA #364
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 1997 23:31:02 +0000
From: kevinm@gil.com.au
Subject: [none]
Hello, I have for some time read the messages on this list with great
enjoyment and I decided that after reading Mr Moore's message re
every one posting I should oblige,here goes.
My name is Kevin Macdonald, I am closer to 50 than 40 and started my
love affair with motorcycles when I was about 14 with a solid back
end Enfield 500 bullet that I rode in the woods near my home in
Britain, by the time I reached 16 and could legally ride a bike on
the roads I had learnt more or less how to keep it going and how
heavy a bike is to push when it doesnt go.
The first road bike I bought was a 250 AJS, model 14, I think it was,
it was terrible by todays standards, the engine was regularly
breaking crankpins and loseing teeth off cogs in the gear box and was
flat out at about 60mph.
I still have nightmares recalling the electrical system which had a
mind of its own. Then I discovered 2 strokes by way of a Norman B4
sports, engine a Villiers 250 twin, I can still remember the awsome
power and smoothness of that 12hp 180 degree twin when it ran.If.
Then I discovered at 17 what used to be called scrambling. For
29pound I bought a Tribsa, 500 triumph alloy motor, Gold star gear
box, BSA a10 frame, oil in the frame conversion, Norton roadholder
forks with Rickman fibre glass tank and seat assembly.
I made a trailer and having joined a local scrambling club and
obtained a racing licence I had my brother take me,( he had a car)
take me to my first race meeting. This was held under the auspices of
the Amateur Motor Cycle Association which was centered on Birmingham
in the English midlands, I cant remember the venue but I remember it
rained all day and I was upset with brother because he wouldn't get
out of his car and watch so I had no idea where I finished in my
races. The racing format was Juniors, Seniors and Expert,with
capacity classes in the Seniors and Expert but all in together in the
Juniors and Juniors were where you started. I can still remember
vividly the apprehension and the nerves, the need for a pee when
being called to the start line, this was only slightly worse that
when I pushed that Tribsa accross the paddock for scrutineering, I
always feared that man who prodded every spoke, pulled and pushed
every lever and twisted the throttle and tut tutted when the grip
slowly revolved back from the fully open position. What power that man
had. Speaking of the start line, that is exactly what it was, a 6
inch deep trench dug in the ground into which you placed your front
wheel, when that was done neutral was engaged, that was a feat on its
own, then you were required to hold your left hand on your helmet and
when the started waved his flag you grabbed for the clutch lever,
stamped on the lever and wound it on for all you were worth. I can
still see in my mind a row of bikes with their riders leaning
forward, helmets almost touching the braceing bar on the handle bars
and left hands and arms moving between helmet and clutch lever trying
to second guess the starter. Ok that was over half a lifetime ago and
half a world away, I now live in Brisbane capitol of Queensland in
Australia but the love affair continues. What was your first time
like?
Thanks Kevin
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End of VintDirt-digest V1 #30
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